View full sizeThis photo is one of the images that Greenpeace International obtained during a year-long investigation into toxic water pollution from the textile industry in China. In a statement issued Friday night, Martin Hojsik, Detox Campaign Coordinator at Greenpeace International, said: "Greenpeace is challenging all of the companies to respond with more urgency to the problem of toxic water pollution, by publishing shorter and more concrete time-lines for the elimination of the most hazardous chemicals. Greenpeace is also calling on the companies to become more transparent and provide clear time-lines for the disclosure of pollution information, so that the public can quickly and easily monitor their progress towards zero discharges of all hazardous substances and ensure they live up to their promises. Toxic water pollution is an urgent problem for millions of people, so there's plenty of work still to do for all of the brands, who must listen to their customers' demands for toxic-free clothing, and move quickly and decisively to bring about effective and structural change in the fashion industry. and
, wily competitors at the cash register for four decades, announced an agreement Friday with several other footwear and clothing brands to work jointly to eliminate the discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020.
The agreement is viewed as a major step toward eliminating substances threatening drinking water in industrialized China and other countries where mass quantities of apparel, footwear and other products have been made, largely unchecked by environmental regulation.
Participants worked with Greenpeace International over the past two years before issuing guidelines Friday explaining broadly how the goals would be achieved.
of the brands to vow to meet the 2020 goal. Adidas and others committed shortly thereafter.
For its part, Greenpeace issued a statement Friday night praising the participants but suggesting they should try to reach the goals before 2020.
Nike issued this statement:
"In August, Greenpeace challenged our industry to commit to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020. Adidas Group, C&A, H&M, Li Ning, Nike and Puma accepted that challenge and have joined together in a game-changing collaboration to meet Greenpeace's challenge.
"The brands have worked together over the last several months to put together a comprehensive roadmap on how best to achieve zero discharge in our supply chains. The 'Joint Roadmap Towards Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals' is now going through a process of stakeholder review whereby we are engaging with key non-governmental organizations, industry groups and other businesses to solicit feedback and the best ways to expedite the achievement of this extremely ambitious goal."
In China, Greenpeace estimates as much as 70 percent of rivers, lakes and reservoirs are affected by water pollution. Further, the environmental group identified links between major clothing brands and textile factories in China that are releasing hazardous chemicals into rivers.
The "Joint Roadmap" includes specific goals and timelines. But it also seeks improvement, calling for public comment before the end of the year.
Greenpeace, a Nike spokesperson said, is expected make sure the existing broad-based targets are met, including:
- Jointly communicating the mission of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals to all suppliers beginning immediately.
- Conducting pilot projects at major materials suppliers between 2011 and 2013 to better understand scope of use and discharge of hazardous chemicals.
- Verifying that nine classes of hazardous or persistent chemicals are not currently used.
- Initiating an inventory of all chemicals used in apparel manufacturing by the end of 2012.
- Disclosing the results of all pilots and studies undertaken as part of this commitment.
- Reporting regularly and publicly on progress (quarterly in 2012, annually from 2013 to 2020).
- The "Roadmap" also leaves the door open for other companies joining the collaborative process.
The agreement is significant not only for the goal of ending hazardous discharges, but also for symbolic reasons, said Joel Tickner, a University of Massachusetts-Lowell associate professor of community health and sustainability.
"The fact that they are willing to sit down with Greenpeace and try to find common ground demonstrates the willingness to find a sustainable solution," said Tickner, who once worked for Greenpeace. "This is an industry that is trying to do the right thing."
Tickner disagreed that some examples of river and groundwater pollution in China and elsewhere in the world are beyond repair.
"We can throw up our hands and say it's already too late," Ticker said. "But in a hundred years we may be able to restore those waters back to pristine conditions."
Ad Choices